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Tipup Canopy Skin Fitting Questions

 
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Brantel
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Joined: 30 Aug 2006
Posts: 780
Location (Optional): Newport, TN

PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 10:12 am    Post subject: Tipup Canopy Skin Fitting Questions Reply with quote

I need to continue the quest to get a nice fit on the tipup canopy skin and have a few problem areas and need to know what you guys have done with these areas. Please offer your thoughts on the best way to deal with these spots:



I took seaming pliers to the front lower corners and bent the edge in toward the fuse on the last 1/4" or so at the bottom. You can see that in the pic. Even with this, there is still an gap and you can see right thru there from the inside.
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Brantel
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
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cjensen
Whiskey Victor


Joined: 24 Apr 2005
Posts: 4277
Location (Optional): Normal, IL

PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I may be wrong...but, I wouldn't worry about getting all of it to fit perfectly at this point. Do you have the struts in yet? That will change things again...

I haven't even tried to fit the forward skin to the canopy frame yet. I had the skin on a time or two to check it, but getting it to fit will come later on.

As far as the bottom of the frame where it meets the fuselage, I used seamers from front to back to pull the skin and skirt out a bit.

YMMV...but I'm not worrying about it right now. Perhaps I should??? Confused
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bullojm1
Class C


Joined: 25 Mar 2006
Posts: 683
Location (Optional): Bawlmer, MD

PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took care of the gaps on the forward edge of the canopy skin with a metal shrinker. Worked PERFECTLY.


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Mike Bullock
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Brantel
Class C


Joined: 30 Aug 2006
Posts: 780
Location (Optional): Newport, TN

PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Mike,

Mail that thing to me so I can use it! Mr. Green
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Brantel
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
O-360Carb, 2 Slicks, FP Metal Prop
D100,D120,HS34,AP74,SV32Roll,SV42Pitch, Aera 510, A210 Com, KT76A xPonder, Zaon XRX PCAS, PM3000, LS Zulu Headsets Phase I completed 06/12/10
Dynon AP Alpha/Beta tester
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Brantel
Class C


Joined: 30 Aug 2006
Posts: 780
Location (Optional): Newport, TN

PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not worrying to much with it because I have tons more I can do before getting to the fine fitting but I just wanted to see what others have done to fix some of these areas.

I did see on your site where you pulled the two front lower sides in with a coulple 2x4s and a strap. did that work OK to eliminate the gap at the front lower corners?

I will keep pulling on the side rail to canopy frame weldment areas to get them worked out to the fuse sides. My canopy side rails matched the fuse curve almost 100% out of the box but the canopy frame weldment is pulling them inboard at that splice plate area.

cjensen wrote:
I may be wrong...but, I wouldn't worry about getting all of it to fit perfectly at this point. Do you have the struts in yet? That will change things again...

I haven't even tried to fit the forward skin to the canopy frame yet. I had the skin on a time or two to check it, but getting it to fit will come later on.

As far as the bottom of the frame where it meets the fuselage, I used seamers from front to back to pull the skin and skirt out a bit.

YMMV...but I'm not worrying about it right now. Perhaps I should??? Confused

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Brantel
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
O-360Carb, 2 Slicks, FP Metal Prop
D100,D120,HS34,AP74,SV32Roll,SV42Pitch, Aera 510, A210 Com, KT76A xPonder, Zaon XRX PCAS, PM3000, LS Zulu Headsets Phase I completed 06/12/10
Dynon AP Alpha/Beta tester
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Spike
Chief Rivet Banger


Joined: 14 Oct 2004
Posts: 3392
Location (Optional): Baltimore, MD

PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

One thing to mention here regarding gaps like this, remember to not get them too tight. When you paint you will definitely add a few mils to the thickness of the material.

Spike
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bullojm1
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Joined: 25 Mar 2006
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Location (Optional): Bawlmer, MD

PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, dont worry about the front corners and how they don't line up. They will be pulled WAY in when you rivet it together.
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Mike Bullock
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bullojm1
Class C


Joined: 25 Mar 2006
Posts: 683
Location (Optional): Bawlmer, MD

PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brantel wrote:

Mail that thing to me so I can use it! Mr. Green


I wish I could! I ended up borrowing it from a local -7 builder who bought it for the same reason! Those suckers are EXPENSIVE! Maybe you could find a place that rents them?
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Mike Bullock
http://www.rvplane.com
RV-7 | Superior IO-360 | Whirlwind 200RV
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cjensen
Whiskey Victor


Joined: 24 Apr 2005
Posts: 4277
Location (Optional): Normal, IL

PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brantel wrote:
I did see on your site where you pulled the two front lower sides in with a coulple 2x4s and a strap. did that work OK to eliminate the gap at the front lower corners?

This did work great! I pulled it in about a half inch past the fuselage sides, and it sprung back just enough to line up.
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Chad Jensen
N755CB|RV-7|Airworthy 7/6/2010
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