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Brantel Class C

Joined: 30 Aug 2006 Posts: 780 Location (Optional): Newport, TN
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Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 10:12 am Post subject: Tipup Canopy Skin Fitting Questions |
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I need to continue the quest to get a nice fit on the tipup canopy skin and have a few problem areas and need to know what you guys have done with these areas. Please offer your thoughts on the best way to deal with these spots:
I took seaming pliers to the front lower corners and bent the edge in toward the fuse on the last 1/4" or so at the bottom. You can see that in the pic. Even with this, there is still an gap and you can see right thru there from the inside. _________________ Brantel
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
O-360Carb, 2 Slicks, FP Metal Prop
D100,D120,HS34,AP74,SV32Roll,SV42Pitch, Aera 510, A210 Com, KT76A xPonder, Zaon XRX PCAS, PM3000, LS Zulu Headsets Phase I completed 06/12/10
Dynon AP Alpha/Beta tester |
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cjensen Whiskey Victor

Joined: 24 Apr 2005 Posts: 4277 Location (Optional): Normal, IL
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Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 10:28 am Post subject: |
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I may be wrong...but, I wouldn't worry about getting all of it to fit perfectly at this point. Do you have the struts in yet? That will change things again...
I haven't even tried to fit the forward skin to the canopy frame yet. I had the skin on a time or two to check it, but getting it to fit will come later on.
As far as the bottom of the frame where it meets the fuselage, I used seamers from front to back to pull the skin and skirt out a bit.
YMMV...but I'm not worrying about it right now. Perhaps I should???  _________________ Chad Jensen
N755CB|RV-7|Airworthy 7/6/2010
RV-7 Build Log |
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bullojm1 Class C

Joined: 25 Mar 2006 Posts: 683 Location (Optional): Bawlmer, MD
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Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:14 am Post subject: |
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I took care of the gaps on the forward edge of the canopy skin with a metal shrinker. Worked PERFECTLY.
 _________________ Mike Bullock
http://www.rvplane.com
RV-7 | Superior IO-360 | Whirlwind 200RV
Garmin 430W | GRT Dual Sport EFIS
Status: Firewall Forward / Wiring
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Brantel Class C

Joined: 30 Aug 2006 Posts: 780 Location (Optional): Newport, TN
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Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:17 am Post subject: |
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Hey Mike,
Mail that thing to me so I can use it!  _________________ Brantel
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
O-360Carb, 2 Slicks, FP Metal Prop
D100,D120,HS34,AP74,SV32Roll,SV42Pitch, Aera 510, A210 Com, KT76A xPonder, Zaon XRX PCAS, PM3000, LS Zulu Headsets Phase I completed 06/12/10
Dynon AP Alpha/Beta tester |
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Brantel Class C

Joined: 30 Aug 2006 Posts: 780 Location (Optional): Newport, TN
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Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:21 am Post subject: |
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Not worrying to much with it because I have tons more I can do before getting to the fine fitting but I just wanted to see what others have done to fix some of these areas.
I did see on your site where you pulled the two front lower sides in with a coulple 2x4s and a strap. did that work OK to eliminate the gap at the front lower corners?
I will keep pulling on the side rail to canopy frame weldment areas to get them worked out to the fuse sides. My canopy side rails matched the fuse curve almost 100% out of the box but the canopy frame weldment is pulling them inboard at that splice plate area.
| cjensen wrote: | I may be wrong...but, I wouldn't worry about getting all of it to fit perfectly at this point. Do you have the struts in yet? That will change things again...
I haven't even tried to fit the forward skin to the canopy frame yet. I had the skin on a time or two to check it, but getting it to fit will come later on.
As far as the bottom of the frame where it meets the fuselage, I used seamers from front to back to pull the skin and skirt out a bit.
YMMV...but I'm not worrying about it right now. Perhaps I should???  |
_________________ Brantel
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
O-360Carb, 2 Slicks, FP Metal Prop
D100,D120,HS34,AP74,SV32Roll,SV42Pitch, Aera 510, A210 Com, KT76A xPonder, Zaon XRX PCAS, PM3000, LS Zulu Headsets Phase I completed 06/12/10
Dynon AP Alpha/Beta tester |
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Spike Chief Rivet Banger
Joined: 14 Oct 2004 Posts: 3392 Location (Optional): Baltimore, MD
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Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:21 am Post subject: |
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One thing to mention here regarding gaps like this, remember to not get them too tight. When you paint you will definitely add a few mils to the thickness of the material.
Spike _________________ www.rivetbangers.com - Now integrating web and mail!
N202PJ - Lindy bound
Tail, Wings, Fuse in Progress! |
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bullojm1 Class C

Joined: 25 Mar 2006 Posts: 683 Location (Optional): Bawlmer, MD
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Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:23 am Post subject: |
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Also, dont worry about the front corners and how they don't line up. They will be pulled WAY in when you rivet it together. _________________ Mike Bullock
http://www.rvplane.com
RV-7 | Superior IO-360 | Whirlwind 200RV
Garmin 430W | GRT Dual Sport EFIS
Status: Firewall Forward / Wiring
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bullojm1 Class C

Joined: 25 Mar 2006 Posts: 683 Location (Optional): Bawlmer, MD
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Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:24 am Post subject: |
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| Brantel wrote: |
Mail that thing to me so I can use it!
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I wish I could! I ended up borrowing it from a local -7 builder who bought it for the same reason! Those suckers are EXPENSIVE! Maybe you could find a place that rents them? _________________ Mike Bullock
http://www.rvplane.com
RV-7 | Superior IO-360 | Whirlwind 200RV
Garmin 430W | GRT Dual Sport EFIS
Status: Firewall Forward / Wiring
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cjensen Whiskey Victor

Joined: 24 Apr 2005 Posts: 4277 Location (Optional): Normal, IL
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Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:32 am Post subject: |
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| Brantel wrote: | | I did see on your site where you pulled the two front lower sides in with a coulple 2x4s and a strap. did that work OK to eliminate the gap at the front lower corners? |
This did work great! I pulled it in about a half inch past the fuselage sides, and it sprung back just enough to line up. _________________ Chad Jensen
N755CB|RV-7|Airworthy 7/6/2010
RV-7 Build Log |
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