RV-9A Aileron trailing edge
RV-9A Aileron trailing edge
I am getting ready to rivet the trailing edge on the ailerons. The instructions say to use the same procedure as the trailing edge on the rudder. I plan on putting proseal on the wedge, but do I need to let the proseal setup for a couple of days like I did on the rudder? Opinions welcome!
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- Chief Rivet Banger
- Posts: 4013
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- Location: Baltimore, MD
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I would let it. Give it 48 hours or so. I used epoxy on the rudder TE and am not i was completely satisfied. I might try the proseal route. Cleaning up the epoxy that squeezed out was a bit of a pain.
Spike
Spike
http://www.rivetbangers.com - Now integrating web and mail!
Current Build: 2 years into a beautiful little girl
Current Build: 2 years into a beautiful little girl
Hey Smitty,
I used T-88 epoxy on my rudder & elevators and they came out great. I had heard that many others used proseal so I used it on my right aileron and after letting sit for 4 days, it still pulled apart while riveting.
I went back to the T-88 on the left aileron and it worked great. YMMV
Spike, the trick is to spread a THIN layer of epoxy on the skins and AEX and then wipe down after you finish clecoing before it hardens.
I used T-88 epoxy on my rudder & elevators and they came out great. I had heard that many others used proseal so I used it on my right aileron and after letting sit for 4 days, it still pulled apart while riveting.
I went back to the T-88 on the left aileron and it worked great. YMMV
Spike, the trick is to spread a THIN layer of epoxy on the skins and AEX and then wipe down after you finish clecoing before it hardens.
Bret Smith
9A Flying (N16BL)
Blue Ridge, GA
http://www.FlightInnovations.com
APRS Tracking: http://www.flightinnovations.com/tracking.html
9A Flying (N16BL)
Blue Ridge, GA
http://www.FlightInnovations.com
APRS Tracking: http://www.flightinnovations.com/tracking.html
- cnpeters
- Class E
- Posts: 185
- Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 7:04 pm
- Location: Eureka (St. Louis), MO
- Contact:
Finished mine recently. Didn't use anything - just weighted down, slid a steel plate along the TE to backrivet (and later, flush rivet) with wood strips along the rest of the TE and leading edge at same thickness as plate. Riveted every 4th hole, then one inbetween, and so on - dead straight on both. Just finished the longer flap, also a dead straight TE. No epoxy, no proseal (also Van's says you don't need here).
Carl
PS - Smitty - speed it up man . Your site is one of my main RV-9 ones that I survey before working on the plane, but now I've passed you after your recent project hiatus .
Carl
PS - Smitty - speed it up man . Your site is one of my main RV-9 ones that I survey before working on the plane, but now I've passed you after your recent project hiatus .
Bret Smith
9A Flying (N16BL)
Blue Ridge, GA
http://www.FlightInnovations.com
APRS Tracking: http://www.flightinnovations.com/tracking.html
9A Flying (N16BL)
Blue Ridge, GA
http://www.FlightInnovations.com
APRS Tracking: http://www.flightinnovations.com/tracking.html
- Lorin Dueck
- Class D
- Posts: 252
- Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2005 2:12 pm
- Location: San Jose, CA
- Contact:
Smitty -
I used Pro-seal on both ailerons - and let them set for 48 hours.
Came out great. I think the trick is to make sure you get an even coat - but as thin as you can make it. Popsicle sticks worked great for this.
One other suggestion is to wiggle each cleco after you set it to make sure it is fully engaged to get a tight joint on the trailing edge.
I also used Pro-Seal on one (1) of my flaps (even though the instructions don't tell you to).
Since the flaps are a lot longer than the ailerons - it was more messy and took a little more time to get it clecoed together.
FYI - I didn't Pro-seal my 2nd flap -> it took even longer to get the clecoes in and the flap back riveted but in the end I couldn't tell the difference....
If you have Pro-Seal - might as well use it on the ailerons.
I'm not sure I'd recommend it for the flaps.
Lorin D
9A Wings
N194LD reserved
I used Pro-seal on both ailerons - and let them set for 48 hours.
Came out great. I think the trick is to make sure you get an even coat - but as thin as you can make it. Popsicle sticks worked great for this.
One other suggestion is to wiggle each cleco after you set it to make sure it is fully engaged to get a tight joint on the trailing edge.
I also used Pro-Seal on one (1) of my flaps (even though the instructions don't tell you to).
Since the flaps are a lot longer than the ailerons - it was more messy and took a little more time to get it clecoed together.
FYI - I didn't Pro-seal my 2nd flap -> it took even longer to get the clecoes in and the flap back riveted but in the end I couldn't tell the difference....
If you have Pro-Seal - might as well use it on the ailerons.
I'm not sure I'd recommend it for the flaps.
Lorin D
9A Wings
N194LD reserved