Wing jig details
- captain_john
- Sparky
- Posts: 5880
- Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2004 9:17 am
- Location: KPYM
i picked up my wing stands today from a local welding shop. they did a good job, but now i have to figure out how to make the holes and angle bracket ledges level. i am gonna paint 'em before they get installed. any suggestions??
they were a bit more than i would've paid for the wood to do the same thing, but i really like the look of these, and they won't be so overpowering in the shop.
they were a bit more than i would've paid for the wood to do the same thing, but i really like the look of these, and they won't be so overpowering in the shop.
- captain_john
- Sparky
- Posts: 5880
- Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2004 9:17 am
- Location: KPYM
thanks CJ!
i think that just drilling and bolting would work because they won't be tightened down, if you're thinking that the tube will compress? the angle that the spars will rest on will be adjustable, and be held in place and tightened with the threaded rod from below. does that make sense? rudi has some great pics, and i'll copy his design.
i need to figure how to make all four holes that will attach that piece of angle level to keep the wings level.
i think that just drilling and bolting would work because they won't be tightened down, if you're thinking that the tube will compress? the angle that the spars will rest on will be adjustable, and be held in place and tightened with the threaded rod from below. does that make sense? rudi has some great pics, and i'll copy his design.
i need to figure how to make all four holes that will attach that piece of angle level to keep the wings level.
- captain_john
- Sparky
- Posts: 5880
- Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2004 9:17 am
- Location: KPYM
That is 2x6x1/4 or 3/16 hollow structural steel by the looks of it. It aint gonna compress!
In fact, it aint goin NOWHERE! Good stuff!
I was thinking about a pivot joint to allow you to level the spars. Through bolt in in the center and a couple of smaller, elongated holes (if required)on either side to secure the angle.
You are STYLIN'!
CJ
In fact, it aint goin NOWHERE! Good stuff!
I was thinking about a pivot joint to allow you to level the spars. Through bolt in in the center and a couple of smaller, elongated holes (if required)on either side to secure the angle.
You are STYLIN'!
CJ
RV-7
Garmin G3X with VP-X & a TMX-IO-360 with G3i
It's all over but the flying! 800+ hours in only 3 years!
Garmin G3X with VP-X & a TMX-IO-360 with G3i
It's all over but the flying! 800+ hours in only 3 years!
Hi Chad (CJensen)
Like your stuff...take what is out there ask questions and improve on it...thats what I did with some of CJ's and other's ideas! That is what RVing is about! Making it easier and better for those that come after us.
It is not critical to have the stands, 100% aligned and straight up, you will adjust the arms to be level to compensate for the floor etc. It does not matter if the one stand is slightly scew in relation to the other stand on the other side, since the spar rests on the arms and you will be clamping them down on them. The Arms is the import bit.
Important: Make sure you got a good very tight fit of the stand onto the floor, you don't want any relative movement on the floor.
Drill all the way through the tube and put a bolt through all the way, it compresses very little, but you want the arm adjustable at first, and it is supported by the treaded rod. Then after adjusting you can just make it tight. After tightining it, it is not going anywhere, becuase of the triangular setup.
Here is my post and pictures for reference again.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/s ... php?t=1346
The bottom arms will be slightly closer to the frame, so I used a wooden spacer block. It is not carrying any load. It is there to ensure you can take out any warp in the wing, and clamp the bottom down.
Like your stuff...take what is out there ask questions and improve on it...thats what I did with some of CJ's and other's ideas! That is what RVing is about! Making it easier and better for those that come after us.
It is not critical to have the stands, 100% aligned and straight up, you will adjust the arms to be level to compensate for the floor etc. It does not matter if the one stand is slightly scew in relation to the other stand on the other side, since the spar rests on the arms and you will be clamping them down on them. The Arms is the import bit.
Important: Make sure you got a good very tight fit of the stand onto the floor, you don't want any relative movement on the floor.
Drill all the way through the tube and put a bolt through all the way, it compresses very little, but you want the arm adjustable at first, and it is supported by the treaded rod. Then after adjusting you can just make it tight. After tightining it, it is not going anywhere, becuase of the triangular setup.
Here is my post and pictures for reference again.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/s ... php?t=1346
The bottom arms will be slightly closer to the frame, so I used a wooden spacer block. It is not carrying any load. It is there to ensure you can take out any warp in the wing, and clamp the bottom down.
Rudi Greyling, South Africa, RV7 Tip-up, Current Status: Wings.
Web Page: www.freepgs.com/flyboy
"Science, freedom, beauty, adventure...what more could you ask of life? Aviation offers it all" - Charles A. Lindbergh
Web Page: www.freepgs.com/flyboy
"Science, freedom, beauty, adventure...what more could you ask of life? Aviation offers it all" - Charles A. Lindbergh
rudi,
is there any adjustment to the arm where it attaches to the post? like up and down adjustments in an elongated hole, like CJ suggested? seems that if the arm is only allowed to swing on that pivot, the spar could end up not resting flat and end up with some twisting. i plan on punching the holes this afternoon in order to paint it tonight...
also for anyone...how wide is the spar and how far out do your arms reach from the post? i can probably get this from the preview plans, huh...
is there any adjustment to the arm where it attaches to the post? like up and down adjustments in an elongated hole, like CJ suggested? seems that if the arm is only allowed to swing on that pivot, the spar could end up not resting flat and end up with some twisting. i plan on punching the holes this afternoon in order to paint it tonight...
also for anyone...how wide is the spar and how far out do your arms reach from the post? i can probably get this from the preview plans, huh...
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- Chief Rivet Banger
- Posts: 4013
- Joined: Thu Oct 14, 2004 8:40 pm
- Location: Baltimore, MD
- Contact:
Sweet!!
http://www.rivetbangers.com - Now integrating web and mail!
Current Build: 2 years into a beautiful little girl
Current Build: 2 years into a beautiful little girl
-
- Chief Rivet Banger
- Posts: 4013
- Joined: Thu Oct 14, 2004 8:40 pm
- Location: Baltimore, MD
- Contact:
Thanx for reminding me ..... punk! I did not. Though I did call the factory before the increases to find out what they were going to be. It didnt seem like it was financially beneficial to have them shipped before. However, I have made tons of progress this week towards getting back to the project. We had lots of other life things to take care of between the house and such, that the holidays prevented us from completing. The moral of the story is that I hope to be making forward progress real soon
http://www.rivetbangers.com - Now integrating web and mail!
Current Build: 2 years into a beautiful little girl
Current Build: 2 years into a beautiful little girl
sorry dude! but, i'm glad it's not gonna hurt shipping later. hope the life stuff slows down for ya soon, so you can get back to what really matters! just kidding, of course! as soon as the weather breaks this spring, i know i'm gonna be put to work on re-landscaping the front yard. life...ain't it fun! now go rivet something!
- captain_john
- Sparky
- Posts: 5880
- Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2004 9:17 am
- Location: KPYM
CJ - What kind of rubber flooring did you use!?! I looked all over today and the only thing I could find that was close were "Cow Mats" at Fleet Farm! They don't lock together like the ones you have.
Let me know what those are and where the heck one could find one!
Thanks! - Peter
Let me know what those are and where the heck one could find one!
Thanks! - Peter
Peter Fruehling
RV-7 Wings -> QB Fuse in the shop!
North Oaks, MN -> Home Base (KMIC)
RV-7 Wings -> QB Fuse in the shop!
North Oaks, MN -> Home Base (KMIC)
- captain_john
- Sparky
- Posts: 5880
- Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2004 9:17 am
- Location: KPYM
Chad, that looks great! The contrast of the yellow and silver DOES look great!
Peter, I got the stuff locally at the odd lot retail store. I have seen Home Depot and Lowes selling similar stuff that comes in 2' squares. I would have preferred that, but I happened upon this stuff first. The supply of these things is very "catch as catch can". It seems that when stores get them, they have them until supplies are depleted and then... who knows when stock will be filled next?
Sears also has carried them. They are not cheap. The few I have cost me $200!
...but they are nice! Watch Home Depot and ask at Sears.
Lemme know what you find out. Others have asked as well.
CJ
Peter, I got the stuff locally at the odd lot retail store. I have seen Home Depot and Lowes selling similar stuff that comes in 2' squares. I would have preferred that, but I happened upon this stuff first. The supply of these things is very "catch as catch can". It seems that when stores get them, they have them until supplies are depleted and then... who knows when stock will be filled next?
Sears also has carried them. They are not cheap. The few I have cost me $200!
...but they are nice! Watch Home Depot and ask at Sears.
Lemme know what you find out. Others have asked as well.
CJ
RV-7
Garmin G3X with VP-X & a TMX-IO-360 with G3i
It's all over but the flying! 800+ hours in only 3 years!
Garmin G3X with VP-X & a TMX-IO-360 with G3i
It's all over but the flying! 800+ hours in only 3 years!