RivetBangers.com

As a General rule... Primers are not intended to be Top Coats...

If the primer is an Epoxy it will quickly degrade (3-6 months) if exposed directly (horz surface) to sunlight... the UV is what breaks down the chemical bonds in the Epoxy.

The first sign is that it will "Yellow" ... this is true for Epoxy paints and Epoxy Resin in fiberglass... then it will begin to "Chalk"

That is why you don't find a (good) Top Coat ... Epoxy based.

Mike

Yah Mike,

All good advice!

CJ

Looking for a Hi Fill primer... one that will fill in most of the rivet edges
and sand easy.... does not need to be an epoxy, as I will use a zink epoxy under this fill primer...

Any one doing this?

Thinking I can cover the rivet edges with two coats, lots of sanding in between... each coat would be 0.006 dry film thick.

Won't cover the rivet dimple, but should get close

Mike

Try this stuff:

Here is the Tech Sheet:

http://www.performancecoatings.dupont.c ... 421-40.pdf

CJ

Good info John I just saved it to my assorted PDF files.

Good call CJ,

This is a great product for filling....Just be sure to apply it to bare metal or fiberglass. It is not designed to be applied over self-etching primer. Also, it must be sanded and topcoated before painting.

I have used this product before and really like the way it really bonds to the metal or fiberglass. It sands like a dream and you can have phenominal results no prior experience. The only problem is being ribbed at fly-ins about owning a plastic plane because no one will see the rivets.

Cooooollll ... that's what I'm looking for..

I am thinking of using it on top of my Sher Will mil spec epoxy zinc primer.
No phos acid in that..

will be do'in my tail feathers next week.....

thanks

Mike

smithhb wrote:This is the Nason Primer I am using in the "soothing gray".

Bret, I just picked some of this stuff up too!

The self leveling features and smooth finish are both really impressive!

How have you found the durability to be?

CJ

CJ, it is incredible! I used it on my floor ribs and there isn't even a scratch after all the times I have fit and removed the floor pans. You will be pleased.

YAH! I am light nib sanding this morning and nibs come off but product stay applied!

Amazing is right!

CJ

UPDATE:

Well, it would seem that this product also has made me ill. My face is all swollen and I look like an old man.

I have grown sensitized to anything that "kicks" with a catalyst and is an epoxy. I was fine with all the polyester resin that I used on the boat but this stuff is toxic to me. I used all the standard PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) but nevertheless, I am exposed. I am going to have someone else do my cowling if I can't use polyester resin on it.

Does anyone know why we need to (or don't we) use epoxy resin on our plastic parts?

CJ

You can use expoxy on Van's Air craft. West Systems be used also. Aeropoxy can also be used. Be very carefull about what you use around or touching your canopy!!!! Polyester fiber glass products will craze or other wise ruin your canopy!!! I have tested Aeropoxy on trimings from my canopy and have not had a problem. I have two friends who did their canopy layups with West Systems. However be safe test any product on some scraps before using it!! I have read about a several people who have had to replace their canopy because they used Polyester!

What about using poly on things like wheel pants?

CJ

You can use Polyester fiber-glass on wheel pants, cowling, gear leg fairings etc. Just don't let it get near your canopy or lenses for wing tip lights or something like that. I would alway test whatever you are using on some scrap material of the canopy or whatever. Even though I am using Areopoxy and have tested it, I will probably test it again before I actually do the lay up on my sliding canopy. Call me parnoid but I don't want to have to the canopy over!