RivetBangers.com

Hi All -

Chad had a comment on a current string saying that he used blind rivets to attach his leading edge ribs to the main spar web.
I'm just about to start this area - and wondered if anyone had comments.
It would be a LOT easier....

Of course I will still use solid rivets to join the LE skin to the spar flange.

Thanks,
Lorin D
9A Wings

PS: Thought I'd start a new thread - rather than hijack the existing one...

I did do it this way after Van's recommended it to Dan C, and several other builders in my area did it this way. It is easier, but access with the puller is still not great. You'll have to ground off part of the puller to get it in there. I ended up with scratches on my main ribs that I still need to take care of...

I just felt there was too great a chance of slipping off the rivet head with the gun and set, and really dinging the crap out of the spar web...which would obviously not be a good thing.

Chad, is there an alternate pull rivet part number shown on the plans? Remember what you used?

Thanks,

Will

It's not in the plans, but LP4-3's are what I used. Van's said these are the correct ones to use in place of the solids.

WHOA, whoa, whoa!!!

You gotta at least TRY bangin' a few of these out!

It really isn't that hard for most of them! Two person hammerin' for sure, but not that bad!

Give a few of them a try! You will be pleasantly suprised!

CJ

I think if you read Dan C's site he said they recommended it to him and he did it, he then drilled them out and put regular rivets in there.

Nah, he used blind. He drilled out the bad rivets he set bucking them, and then pulled 'em. Here's an excerpt from his site-

Anyway, I deliberated a while about this, and ultimately I decided to go with the blind rivets as Van's suggested. I took my already-ground-away cheap-ass rivet puller, and I ground off even more of the head so it would sit against the rib web and approach perpendicularity with the rivet head. I got it to a point where it worked and I ended up putting LP4-3 rivets in the rest of the holes.

Thanks Chad. I'm nowhere near that point yet but it will easy enough to search for it here later

CJ, did you put solids in there?

-------------------------------------------

Update:

I was just about to bolt on the tie downs and aileron belcrank brackets to the spars when I noticed that it would be basically impossible to get the belcrank bolt in with the brackets attached. Sure enough, I found on DC's site that you can't Gotta leave em off for now. On to the rear spars

Yesiree ! Will,

Solid all the way.

CJ

Right on CJ, I'll let ya all know when I get there

This has got to be the coolest hooby/project there is!

You said 'hooby'!! Sorry, that just struck me as hilarious!

Nice catch Chad! Obviously I meant to say Skooby. As in I'm really hungry for a skooby snack

Too funny.

Mmmmm! Skooby snacks! Now THAT sounds good...I'm heading to the fridge!

Sounds like booby!


I need some sleep!

get me a beer will ya!!

You guys are killin me!!!!

Sleep would probabl y be a good thing about now for me too

cjensen wrote:It's not in the plans, but LP4-3's are what I used. Van's said these are the correct ones to use in place of the solids.

If you use pulled rivets watch the length. There are some that need to be LP4-4 as the LP4-3 just barely reaches through and does not give much of a shop head. Learned from experience. Some one hand me a drill.

JR, I assume you pulled all the leading edge ribs to spar rivets too? Thanks for the info.

Will

Did someone say BOOBY!?!

CJ

My bad Chad, I could have sworn Dan drilled them out and put solids in. I just confirmed with him that he did use a few blind but said having been there and done that he would go with solid if he did it again.

You guys better stop that booby talk or RB will never get that pretigious "Family Friendly" award.