Slight boo boo...

[cjensen]

...but I don't think it matters. Tell me if you think differently...

I forgot to dimple the second hole from the left (it holds the platenut)-


I started riveting the 470 4-5's on the bracket, and realized it after it was too late. So after studying the plans, and looking ahead, I decided to put a 470 3-4 (cut down a little to about 3.5) in the hole with the manufactured head on the inside, and modified one of my flat sets to squeeze the shop head. Here's how it looks now-


Here's how it should look, done properly on the other side-


From what I can tell, this will not be in the way of anything, and it's just holding the platenut in place.

Like I said, I think I'm ok here, but I wanted to run it past you all...

[tshort]

Dunno about hitting anything - the -8 flaps are totally different.

One thing you could have done is use one of the NAS rivets and just spin the deburring tool in the hole to make a small countersink. I have been using these rivets for a lot of nutplates, esp on thin sheet (like the cap senders, etc)

T.

[Spike]

I would say by looking at the part my quess would be that you will be ok. However dude, remember you can look forward in the PP. Section 4 should show you the drawing numbers on which each part is referenced.

[captain_john]

Chad, fugetaboudit!

You made it STRONGER!!!

You are fine. Press on!

CJ

[Wicked Stick]

It should be fine as long as there's no interference with anything else in that area. Problably a no brainer that it's o.k., but worth giving it a look at once installed.

Build on dude...

[Snap]

I'm sorry mate but you are going to have tho pull the whole plane apart and start over . Right back to the Emp. Now get cracking and take lots of photo's so I can see it all.

[cjensen]

How 'bout I just send it all to you, and you can take it apart!!

[Snap]

Go on, I promise I will pull it apart. Promise

[JohnR]

Chad, I would guess it will be okay but have not looked ahead on the plans.

I would agree with T on getting some of the NAS rivets. I bouhgt a 1/4 pound of them in the 3 size and use them on all most all the nut plates. They are like the oops rivets Van's sells except the size smaller. It takes 6 turns of my debur tool with light pressure to get a deep enough countersink. Quick and easy.

Try em, you'll like it!

[captain_john]

Oh, oh, oh.... oooooh...

I see what you are talking about now! Last might I was short on time and didn't read. After looking at the pictures I THOUGHT I knew what you were talking about, but I was mistaken!

First of all, the reason for the countersunk rivet there is because it goes UNDER the outside doubler! I thought you were talking about the fact that you have it going THROUGH the doubler! That indeed DOES make it stronger.

Buuuuut, after reading what you did on the other one... I now see your question!

Still I say, leave it alone. It does just simply hold the platenut in place. After all, once the PN is tightened... the 1/4-28 palnut is what provides the tension on this joint.

Leave it!

It is fine.

CJ

[cjensen]

Case closed. From the reading I've done, this will not be a problem with anything down the road from what I can tell. I'm leavin' it.

[RVNewsletter]

There's no interference issue here.

A rod end screws into the nutplate. tha's connected to the rod which pulls up into the fuselage. The skin on the flap is going to extend beyond the rib.

I think the only reason there's a flush head there is the possibility that the doubler plate wouldn't fit right-- that it would run into the shop or manufadtured head (depending on how you shot it). But that doesn't appear to be a problem here.

and even if it were, you could just file a little around the radius of the doubler.