CRAP
CRAP
I had a helper over here, helping me get the rudder done, and I was letting him dimple the skins, and he got a bit overzealous with the squeezer, and put an extra hole in it.
Bad enough, right, but it's in the WORST possible spot! The rudder TE
I smashed it back flat with a flat squeezer set... it's cracked across to the TE, but the crack ends in the hole, so I guess it's stop-drilled for me!
What do you folks think... will it fly? Is there something better I can do to repair it? Will the proseal hold it just fine? Or, am I ordering a rudder skin :/
Bad enough, right, but it's in the WORST possible spot! The rudder TE
I smashed it back flat with a flat squeezer set... it's cracked across to the TE, but the crack ends in the hole, so I guess it's stop-drilled for me!
What do you folks think... will it fly? Is there something better I can do to repair it? Will the proseal hold it just fine? Or, am I ordering a rudder skin :/
Ian
RV-7 SB, chugging toward final assembly
IO-360-C1C 200hp obtained.
Hartzell BA prop received.
James Cowl ordered.
N773WW reserved!
RV-7 SB, chugging toward final assembly
IO-360-C1C 200hp obtained.
Hartzell BA prop received.
James Cowl ordered.
N773WW reserved!
- captain_john
- Sparky
- Posts: 5880
- Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2004 9:17 am
- Location: KPYM
Ah, the first mistake...
I remember mine well.
Ian, although I think it would be fine after sealing the TE with T-88 or proseal, your "peace of mind" is a greater factor. Go ahead and order the replacement parts and don't look back. BTW, the shipping will be MUCH less than $100 (unless you live in Antarctica!
Ian, although I think it would be fine after sealing the TE with T-88 or proseal, your "peace of mind" is a greater factor. Go ahead and order the replacement parts and don't look back. BTW, the shipping will be MUCH less than $100 (unless you live in Antarctica!
Bret Smith
9A Flying (N16BL)
Blue Ridge, GA
http://www.FlightInnovations.com
APRS Tracking: http://www.flightinnovations.com/tracking.html
9A Flying (N16BL)
Blue Ridge, GA
http://www.FlightInnovations.com
APRS Tracking: http://www.flightinnovations.com/tracking.html
- Wicked Stick
- Class B
- Posts: 1000
- Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2005 10:00 pm
- Location: KEWB
If I'm under the correct assumption in that your particular rudder is the type where there is no bend line and it just has two trailing edges that are joined together with a piece of aluminum in between and then double flush riveted, I see no reason to get a new skin.
I'd wager it would be fine if you drilled the unwanted dimple hole to a nice clean round hole, deburrend it, and then filled it in with proseal when you sandwhich the parts together and double flush rivet them.
I wee bit of filler before painting and no one would be the wiser.
I wouldn't think it would cause an issue down the road as it's on a flat surface up against the rear insert piece that is prosealed and riveted.
Of course, it is your call on if you want to live with it or not.. The new parts aren't a huge cost.
I'd wager it would be fine if you drilled the unwanted dimple hole to a nice clean round hole, deburrend it, and then filled it in with proseal when you sandwhich the parts together and double flush rivet them.
I wee bit of filler before painting and no one would be the wiser.
I wouldn't think it would cause an issue down the road as it's on a flat surface up against the rear insert piece that is prosealed and riveted.
Of course, it is your call on if you want to live with it or not.. The new parts aren't a huge cost.
Dave "WS" Rogers
RV-8 (125 hrs & counting)
N173DR
RV-8 (125 hrs & counting)
N173DR
- Womack2005
- Class D
- Posts: 486
- Joined: Mon Oct 17, 2005 1:20 pm
- Location: Appleton, WI
I just spoke to Van's, they said no problem, just drill it to clean it up and notch the edge of the skin where the crack is, so I end up with a little half-moon shape taken out of the edge, then fill it later. Also, he said that if the adjacent rivet no longer meets the edge distance minimum (which it looks like it won't), put another rivet 1/4" or so on the other side, which I can do.
Also, those stiffeners are $5.50 apiece (one piece makes 2), so I'd need like $22 worth of stiffeners in addition to the $40 skin.
Also, those stiffeners are $5.50 apiece (one piece makes 2), so I'd need like $22 worth of stiffeners in addition to the $40 skin.
Ian
RV-7 SB, chugging toward final assembly
IO-360-C1C 200hp obtained.
Hartzell BA prop received.
James Cowl ordered.
N773WW reserved!
RV-7 SB, chugging toward final assembly
IO-360-C1C 200hp obtained.
Hartzell BA prop received.
James Cowl ordered.
N773WW reserved!
- captain_john
- Sparky
- Posts: 5880
- Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2004 9:17 am
- Location: KPYM