I drilled two holes on the bottom of my left elevator (skin to spar) for flush rivets thinking I could get to them with the hand squeezer. I could have had I not already riveted the counterbalance arm on. DOH! I am looking for a good fix. I can not get in there to buck them and do not want to drill out the rivets on the counterbalance arm. I am considering drilling the two holes out and putting in LP 4-3? I can drill them out and deburr as best I can but would not be able to dimple for CS 4-4. This is on the bottom of the left elevator. I am not crazy about the idea of using the low profile rivets but it is only on two holes. Open to other suggestions. Picture below it is the two holes on the right side skin to spar.
[img][img]http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab25 ... sem007.jpg[/img][/img]
best way to fix?
- Joe Parish
- Class D
- Posts: 311
- Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2010 3:42 pm
- Location: Sioux Falls SD
best way to fix?
Joe
N525XC reserved
Empennage done
wings done
Fuse in progress
RV-9A
N525XC reserved
Empennage done
wings done
Fuse in progress
RV-9A
Joe,
Others may offer differing opinions, but I'd be tempted to just drill them out, countersink and use the CS4-4 flush pop rivets there. I know it's not the ideal situation for countersinking, but it's only 2 rivets.
An even better solution in my mind uses "oops" rivets, but it raises a question... why can't the rivets be bucked? It looks like you may have already rolled and pop-riveted the leading edge?? If so, for the relatively small amount of trouble it would be to drill out those few pop rivets and undo the rolled leading edge just enough to be able to reach in there with a small bucking bar, it would allow you to use "oops" rivets on those two holes. Are you familiar with those? They're NAS1097 rivets, and the very small countersink you need can be done with just a few turns of a deburring bit. That would be my first choice!
Others may offer differing opinions, but I'd be tempted to just drill them out, countersink and use the CS4-4 flush pop rivets there. I know it's not the ideal situation for countersinking, but it's only 2 rivets.
An even better solution in my mind uses "oops" rivets, but it raises a question... why can't the rivets be bucked? It looks like you may have already rolled and pop-riveted the leading edge?? If so, for the relatively small amount of trouble it would be to drill out those few pop rivets and undo the rolled leading edge just enough to be able to reach in there with a small bucking bar, it would allow you to use "oops" rivets on those two holes. Are you familiar with those? They're NAS1097 rivets, and the very small countersink you need can be done with just a few turns of a deburring bit. That would be my first choice!
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- Chief Rivet Banger
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Use blind rivets and keep on trucking.
Spike
Spike
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Current Build: 2 years into a beautiful little girl
Current Build: 2 years into a beautiful little girl
- Joe Parish
- Class D
- Posts: 311
- Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2010 3:42 pm
- Location: Sioux Falls SD