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I drilled two holes on the bottom of my left elevator (skin to spar) for flush rivets thinking I could get to them with the hand squeezer. I could have had I not already riveted the counterbalance arm on. DOH! I am looking for a good fix. I can not get in there to buck them and do not want to drill out the rivets on the counterbalance arm. I am considering drilling the two holes out and putting in LP 4-3? I can drill them out and deburr as best I can but would not be able to dimple for CS 4-4. This is on the bottom of the left elevator. I am not crazy about the idea of using the low profile rivets but it is only on two holes. Open to other suggestions. Picture below it is the two holes on the right side skin to spar.
[img][img]http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab25 ... sem007.jpg[/img][/img]

Joe,

Others may offer differing opinions, but I'd be tempted to just drill them out, countersink and use the CS4-4 flush pop rivets there. I know it's not the ideal situation for countersinking, but it's only 2 rivets.

An even better solution in my mind uses "oops" rivets, but it raises a question... why can't the rivets be bucked? It looks like you may have already rolled and pop-riveted the leading edge?? If so, for the relatively small amount of trouble it would be to drill out those few pop rivets and undo the rolled leading edge just enough to be able to reach in there with a small bucking bar, it would allow you to use "oops" rivets on those two holes. Are you familiar with those? They're NAS1097 rivets, and the very small countersink you need can be done with just a few turns of a deburring bit. That would be my first choice!

2 words....Cherry max.

Not sure what size, but they are stronger and you can forget about them once they are pulled into position.

Use blind rivets and keep on trucking.

Spike

Yep, throw some blinds in there, and move on. Get some Cherry Max's if you can find just a few (they are expensive and usually only sold in bags of hundreds). Not a big deal...

Yup, been there, done that. Use a couple of flush pulled rivets. I bought a few from Wicks (Cherry). When the plane gets painted, fill the holes and it will never show.

cjensen wrote:....... Get some Cherry Max's if you can find just a few (they are expensive ......:

I ask my local FBO, they had a bunch and different sizes. I bought 4 from them for next to nothing.

Thanks for the info. I had to drill the hole out to a #34(.111) and I used a MK 319 BS rivet which is a structural rivet and the flush head fits in a 3/32 dimple. Bonus, I had a few in the shop. Problem solved. Moving on Thanks