Status Brantel #72823
[quote="Brantel"]Don't you hate it when you are about to finish the last rivet on the rear deck where the HS mounts when all of a sudden you drop your heavy bucking bar!
Hey Brantel...
I know exactly how you feel. I did the same thing when riveting my left wing's leading edge together. Had it in the cradle, and dropped my new little tungsten bucking bar... left a nice "outie" dent in the very front of the leading edge. Fortunately, I found a heavy cylindrical piece of metal that matched the curve of the skin, laid it in, and gently hammered the dent with my flush rivet set in the gun. Took most of the damage out; what little remains will easily be filled and smoothed prior to paint with some Evercoat Rage, or something similar. <whew!>
From now on, when riveting above a surface like that, I'm putting a shop towel, some bubble wrap, or something similar down underneath the bucking bar for a "safety net" in case my hands slip again. Lesson learned.
Bruce
Hey Brantel...
I know exactly how you feel. I did the same thing when riveting my left wing's leading edge together. Had it in the cradle, and dropped my new little tungsten bucking bar... left a nice "outie" dent in the very front of the leading edge. Fortunately, I found a heavy cylindrical piece of metal that matched the curve of the skin, laid it in, and gently hammered the dent with my flush rivet set in the gun. Took most of the damage out; what little remains will easily be filled and smoothed prior to paint with some Evercoat Rage, or something similar. <whew!>
From now on, when riveting above a surface like that, I'm putting a shop towel, some bubble wrap, or something similar down underneath the bucking bar for a "safety net" in case my hands slip again. Lesson learned.
Bruce
Status Brantel
This weekend I got the rear baggage compartment bulkhead cover completed, the baggage floors and side walls installed, and the rear seat floors fabbed with the hinges and installed.
The girls after getting ready for bed, came down to give their daddy a good night kiss. Well they just had to get a "ride" in the airplane. I guess I should have started building a 10.


The girls after getting ready for bed, came down to give their daddy a good night kiss. Well they just had to get a "ride" in the airplane. I guess I should have started building a 10.



Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
- Wicked Stick
- Class B
- Posts: 1000
- Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2005 10:00 pm
- Location: KEWB
After helping my friend Tim get airborne for the first time in his RV6A, I returned to my pile of aluminum to finish my seat backs.
Also be careful not to build any twist into these units. Lay them on something flat while drilling and keep checking them while riveting or they can twist.
I used a table saw with a carbide blade to cut the relief in the side angles underwhich sandwiches the hinge. This worked better than trying to use the 1" belt sander to make these reliefs.
I squeezed the side angles, bottom angle and hinge. Shot the top angle and used the C frame tool on the angle adjuster hinge.
I now have seats!
These things are simple but take some time. Also when drilling the skin to the long side angles, be careful and drill both ends first and cleco. The problem is that the corregations in the skin will allow it to flex and this can cause it to shrink or grow in relation to the angle. If you just start on one end and work your way up, it can cause the skin to be longer or shorter than the angle.


Also be careful not to build any twist into these units. Lay them on something flat while drilling and keep checking them while riveting or they can twist.
I used a table saw with a carbide blade to cut the relief in the side angles underwhich sandwiches the hinge. This worked better than trying to use the 1" belt sander to make these reliefs.
I squeezed the side angles, bottom angle and hinge. Shot the top angle and used the C frame tool on the angle adjuster hinge.
I now have seats!
These things are simple but take some time. Also when drilling the skin to the long side angles, be careful and drill both ends first and cleco. The problem is that the corregations in the skin will allow it to flex and this can cause it to shrink or grow in relation to the angle. If you just start on one end and work your way up, it can cause the skin to be longer or shorter than the angle.


Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
Just ordered the following for my standard dual brake RV7. I am also using these instead of the VA-118 supplied in the finish kit.
2pcs -3 St to St w/clear @ 36” (from Lft to Rht) $19.00 ea.
1pcs -3 St to St w/clear @ 18 (Rht side up to Tee) $12.75 ea.
1pcs -3 St to90° w/clear @ 18 (Rht side up to Tee) $13.50 ea.
8pcs 822-3D (master cyld to -3 nut adaptors 90°) $5.00 ea.
1pcs 826-3D (This replaces the plastic Tee) $7.70 ea.
2pcs -3 St to -4 St w/clear @ 24” (from Lft master to #4 firewall bulkhead fittings) $17.?? ea. (special -3 st nut on one end -3 hose w/clear -4 st nut on the other end)
All from Bonaco. Anyone else buy from them and if so are you happy with what you got?
2pcs -3 St to St w/clear @ 36” (from Lft to Rht) $19.00 ea.
1pcs -3 St to St w/clear @ 18 (Rht side up to Tee) $12.75 ea.
1pcs -3 St to90° w/clear @ 18 (Rht side up to Tee) $13.50 ea.
8pcs 822-3D (master cyld to -3 nut adaptors 90°) $5.00 ea.
1pcs 826-3D (This replaces the plastic Tee) $7.70 ea.
2pcs -3 St to -4 St w/clear @ 24” (from Lft master to #4 firewall bulkhead fittings) $17.?? ea. (special -3 st nut on one end -3 hose w/clear -4 st nut on the other end)
All from Bonaco. Anyone else buy from them and if so are you happy with what you got?
Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
Status Brantel
Sold some tools I did not need any longer and replaced them with some I did!
New tube bender, flaring tool, washer wrenches (sure hope these are worth the cost), debur bit from Avery's (wore the original out), new 3/32 countersink cutter (broke the original's pilot off), and a new #19 threaded bit. Also got some more torque seal, a really thin flat set, and the hex flap rods.

I finished the flap motor, mechanism and covers this weekend complete!
Now it is time to mate the wings!

New tube bender, flaring tool, washer wrenches (sure hope these are worth the cost), debur bit from Avery's (wore the original out), new 3/32 countersink cutter (broke the original's pilot off), and a new #19 threaded bit. Also got some more torque seal, a really thin flat set, and the hex flap rods.

I finished the flap motor, mechanism and covers this weekend complete!
Now it is time to mate the wings!


Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
Re: slow down
You'll finish ahead of meweezbad wrote:slow down, i want to finish ahead of somebody


Kelly
RV-7 Empennage done, wings done, fuselage to QB stage
1947 Stinson108-1 flying
RV-7 Empennage done, wings done, fuselage to QB stage
1947 Stinson108-1 flying
Re: slow down
alright1:1_Scale wrote:You'll finish ahead of meweezbad wrote:slow down, i want to finish ahead of somebodyLooking at all of these progress pics makes me really jealous


william....don't let it beat you down, you are stronger than you think.
- Wicked Stick
- Class B
- Posts: 1000
- Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2005 10:00 pm
- Location: KEWB
Re: Status Brantel
Trust me, they will become "worth it" when the time comes to insert washers into hard to reach places. Elevators, Elevator push rod bell crank area, ailerons, etc.Brantel wrote:washer wrenches (sure hope these are worth the cost),
Dave "WS" Rogers
RV-8 (125 hrs & counting)
N173DR
RV-8 (125 hrs & counting)
N173DR
Washer wrenches are WELL WORTH THE MONEY!! The guys here at work showed me their version of a homemade washer wrench, and while it works, the one's we purchase are perfectly suited for making inserting the washers for the ailerons a snap! You'll use them for the control column, push tubes, bellcranks, etc.
They are one of my favorite tools!

They are one of my favorite tools!


Received my hoses from Bonaco and I am more than satisfied with the results.
They put together exactly what I needed. They also did the wierd -3 on one end and the -4 on the other hoses.
The clear coating is very nice.
Now to get them installed....

They put together exactly what I needed. They also did the wierd -3 on one end and the -4 on the other hoses.
The clear coating is very nice.
Now to get them installed....

Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
Status Brantel Emp Mounted!
Well after 8 years, my emp finally was mated to the fuse!
No matter how long it takes, this plane will fly one day!
Never give up! Even if life does cause some periods of delay!

No matter how long it takes, this plane will fly one day!
Never give up! Even if life does cause some periods of delay!

Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
-
- Chief Rivet Banger
- Posts: 4013
- Joined: Thu Oct 14, 2004 8:40 pm
- Location: Baltimore, MD
- Contact:
So do I. I don't feel so discouraged now 

http://www.rivetbangers.com - Now integrating web and mail!
Current Build: 2 years into a beautiful little girl
Current Build: 2 years into a beautiful little girl
Yep it has been a while since I started this adventure around 8 years ago.
I finished the emp kit in about 6 months and it sat there untouched from 2000 till I started the wing kit on 09/18/06 and here it is 2/25/08 and it finally found its home on the fuse!
Total active working time to date is around 1 year and 11 months. Of a couple hours a day on 3 out of five days a workweek and 5 to 8 hours a weekend out of 85% of the weekends.
Have no idea when I will finish, only that I will finish!
I finished the emp kit in about 6 months and it sat there untouched from 2000 till I started the wing kit on 09/18/06 and here it is 2/25/08 and it finally found its home on the fuse!
Total active working time to date is around 1 year and 11 months. Of a couple hours a day on 3 out of five days a workweek and 5 to 8 hours a weekend out of 85% of the weekends.
Have no idea when I will finish, only that I will finish!
Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD