Canopy...I *think* I'm done...

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Sun Jul 27, 2008 9:26 pm

I'm pretty sure I'm done with the canopy at this point. I'm gonna have a fiberglass guy come over and give an inspection, and tell me what else I need to do to make it perfect. Since I'm no expert at this, I've done as much as I know to do, but don't want to prime or paint it until I get it looked at.

Came out nice though!

Post by **bullojm1** » Sun Jul 27, 2008 9:49 pm

Looks awesome Chad! I am planning on finishing up the canopy once I have the cowl mounted, so I am gonna pick your brain on your method later on this week.

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Mon Jul 28, 2008 8:48 am

Thanks man! Talkin' RV's at Wisconsin's finest, drikin' Wisconsin's finest sounds like a plan to me!

cnpeters · Post by **cnpeters** » Mon Jul 28, 2008 12:41 pm

Man, you moved on that since I saw it the other day. A question to all - does anyone paint over it with gloss paint (then sand off) to check for waviness, etc? Our final paint is usually a high gloss, which can show imperfections better than by feel or with a flat primer.

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Mon Jul 28, 2008 3:03 pm

Smear it on one day, sand the next, repeat...

Good question on the gloss paint...

gsimatos · Post by **gsimatos** » Tue Jul 29, 2008 2:33 pm

Chad looks sweet. i just yanked mine outta the crate. Can you tell me where you measured to establish your center line?? Thanks G

Brantel · Post by **Brantel** » Tue Jul 29, 2008 3:24 pm

It ain't easy...

On the sides there are some clamp marks. Find a common one on both sides and measure from there across. Do this several times along the length of the canopy. Then draw a string between the marks and mark it.

It is really only critical at the front and the back.

You can't just measure from side to side because apparently they do not put the raw stock in the mold concistently.

gsimatos · Post by **gsimatos** » Tue Jul 29, 2008 10:47 pm

Brantel, Thanks, yeah I measured from the edges and got no consistent straight line. I know the clamp marks you were referring to. I will try to measure from those and see if things line up better. Wouldn't it be great if there was a pattern you could just lay on the canopy and just cut?? Chad sorry to get off topic, I am envious of your completed canopy. Looks great, Cheers G

Post by **Spike** » Thu Jul 31, 2008 8:27 am

When Neil did his he used a semi gloss gray primer between sanding stages that did an excellent job of showing pinholes, etc. That seems to jive with the other ideas of using a paint to look for imperfections.

Rockyjs · Post by **Rockyjs** » Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:49 am

Chad,
Is that phenolic micro balloons? If so, I used a similar red micros provided by Jamestown Distributors. That's what they sent when I ordered my Sikaflex, glass epoxy and supplies from them. It sure makes people take a second look. I wanted to place a picture and use a comment on the other list about "they just don't make Bondo like they use to. I already used a gallon and I'm not done".

It looks great though!

I haven't done my fiberglass work up front yet. I need someone with good shrinker talent to see if I can get the front skin straightened out that I caught not once, but several times. I'm still kicking myself over that. It's nice to see the glass work come to the front of the skin, so I imagine I can trim and make mine look good.

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:59 am

Rockyjs wrote:Chad,
Is that phenolic micro balloons?

I don't have a clue...it's West Systems 407. I was surprised to see it was red...great stuff to work with though!

rv8or · Post by **rv8or** » Mon Aug 11, 2008 1:36 pm

I can't say for sure if it's phenolic, but it's what they recommend for "high heat" application, say under a darker paint or a surface under constant sunlight.

The other one (410) is light beige.

Joe

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Mon Aug 11, 2008 6:22 pm

Yeah, I have the 410 stuff as well for emp tip fairings and filler. I will have some black along the canopy, and wanted the stuff rated for living under dark colors.

rv8or · Post by **rv8or** » Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:11 pm

Absolutely. Being the fiberglass expert that I am (

), I've been using the 410 to fill open ends (HS, VS), and the 407 on surface stuff.

We'll see if I got it right if/when my paint starts to crack

J

weezbad · Post by **weezbad** » Mon Aug 11, 2008 9:20 pm

i wouldnt worry about any of it cracking to be quite honest. even the cheap stuff. when applied correctly it is there to stay. i still see cars i painted years ago. many of them dark colors. they are holding up fine. with zero shrinkage and high gloss. the one difference is the thickness of the area infront of the plexi. i know airplane folks are picky but have you compared fit and finish on a plane to a car lately. when people pick up a car from the body shop you would think they were gonna eat it they inspect so thorough. as long as it bonded well i wouldnt give it another thought.

hydroguy2 · Post by **hydroguy2** » Sun Aug 24, 2008 9:55 pm

Chad, what gap did you have between the canopy skin and the forward skin? And did it change after you got the canopy secured in place?

I'm working on my tip up frame now and have a tight gap(0.20"). Hinges are drilled. I am unable to open the frame with the skin in place.

I figure I can either shim it up in the center and/or open the gap, but wondered if I should wait.

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Mon Aug 25, 2008 8:40 am

I'm certainly no expert in this area at this point, but I would wait. I haven't fiddled with the gap on mine yet, and I can't open the canopy without risking skin damage either. I think my gap was a little bigger than .20, and it still rubbed. I plan on using an edge roller on the forward skin, and may bevel the canopy skin.

RivetBangers.com

Canopy...I think I'm done...

Canopy...I think I'm done...