Rudder TE issues

Joew · Post by **Joew** » Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:35 pm

After exhaustive research, checking many websites, I bit the bullet and attempted the rudder TE.

I just dont know. The rudder appears straight enough, however some of my shop heads are not flush. Contemplating either removing the rivets and trying again or ordering another rudder.

After prosealing and allowing it to dry for several days I decided to rivet. I had cleko'd the TE on steel square tube while the proseal dried. I then used a steel angle as my back rivet plate.

After I drove all of my rivets halfway with the backrivet set, flipped the rudder over and used my flush set I noticed some of my rivets were moving. I pressed onward slowly. Using the flush set. Then turned the rudder over again and repeating the process.

was this a troubling area for any of you guys? What did you all do?

Joe

weezbad · Post by **weezbad** » Mon Aug 11, 2008 9:12 pm

mine was not particularly troublesome. but the double flush side is not as perfect ast the manufactured head side. they are flush however and dont completely fill the dimple.

Joew · Post by **Joew** » Tue Aug 12, 2008 5:30 am

My shop heads are flat, however my manufactured heads are not. Maybe I did drive the rivets enough with the back rivet plate to lock everything in.

When I run my finger down the manufactured head I feel bumps. I think I will drill out all of the rivets and try again.

Any thoughts?

Joe

Post by **Spike** » Tue Aug 12, 2008 7:33 am

It could be that you did not countersink the the AEX wedge enough for both the rivets and the skin. If thats the case the rivets would protrude.

John

Rockyjs · Post by **Rockyjs** » Tue Aug 12, 2008 5:35 pm

Joew,
If you have someone nearby, a builder or TC, I'd have them take a look. Drilling these rivets out won't be easy. If they are in solid the protruding rivets could be shaved a bit. What Spike said may be what caused your problem.

weezbad · Post by **weezbad** » Tue Aug 12, 2008 8:56 pm

Joew wrote:My shop heads are flat, however my manufactured heads are not. Maybe I did drive the rivets enough with the back rivet plate to lock everything in.

When I run my finger down the manufactured head I feel bumps. I think I will drill out all of the rivets and try again.

Any thoughts?

Joe

joe, if you drill them out and reshoot them make sure you partially drive them from one side then flip them over and finish them. all the while making sure the rudder doesnt hook. i drilled mine out because i thought i was being clever by using a different sealer. it let go and the t/e pillowed and opened up. i removed all the rivets and cleaned and set with proseal and shot them again. its been 5 years

but i dont recall it being difficult to remove them. but then i have removed a bunch of them by this point.
also remember to use one size smaller drill than you used to drill the hole. a spring loaded pin punch ground flat on the end and to the size of the rivet works wonders once you pop the head off. also only drill until you just touch the shank of the rivet. if this is remedial information i appologize. good luck. oh, a picture would be great as they may already be as good as others here.

Joew · Post by **Joew** » Tue Aug 12, 2008 8:56 pm

Well I did take the tail to several other builders. Both say it looks good and that I was suffering from new builder perfectionitis. The tail is straight although several of the manufactured heads are elevated.

They told me to try a back rivet plate and turn down the pressure with a flat set and try again.

I feel better after seeing their planes and getting their perspectives.

Thanks for your thoughts

Joe

RV7Factory · Post by **RV7Factory** » Wed Aug 13, 2008 12:09 pm

Better Is the Enemy of Good Enough

You might just consider putting the rudder aside for a bit. Come back to it in a few weeks or months, you may find that you feel differently about it.

RV7Factory · Post by **RV7Factory** » Wed Aug 13, 2008 12:12 pm

Erroneous double post... IGNORE!