I just finished up the initial assembly of the WD-610/611/612 to the F-633 mounts and F-704-E bulkhead. The instructions say to remove the 610/11/12 from the F-633's and leave them bolted to the bulkhead. It would make more sense to me (not having a crystal ball) to leave everything assembled and unbolt the F-633's from the bulkhead, assuming I take the necessary precautions with the F-716 seat ribs...
I guess I'd just rather not deal with the spacer washers inside what I assume will be somewhat cramped quarters later down the road
Control column removal ?
Control column removal ?
Kelly
RV-7 Empennage done, wings done, fuselage to QB stage
1947 Stinson108-1 flying
RV-7 Empennage done, wings done, fuselage to QB stage
1947 Stinson108-1 flying
Kelly,
I remember contemplating the exact same question. Here are my suggestions.
First, if you haven't done so already, I would highly recommend that you take the time now, while this whole assembly is on the bench, and fit the F-665 lower pushrod to the assembly as well, even though I don't remember if the plans tell you to at this point. It's all on drawing 38. It needs to be fitted to the exact length required with the rod end bearings installed and adjusted as needed until both control sticks are parallel with each other. It's a whole lot easier to do this NOW on the bench than it would be later on when it's in the fuselage under the seat ribs and hard to reach. I would prime it and torque it down for good to the F-611 and 612 because you should never have to mess with it again.
Then, take the whole assembly off. The F-633's and everything as one unit. You can store it for a while this way. I found it easy to install and rivet the seat ribs without them in the way. However, once the seat ribs were riveted on and it was time to assemble the two halves of the F-704 bulkhead together, I bolted the assembly back onto the bulkhead first and then took the F-611 and F-612 off. You'll have a hard time reaching down in between the bulkhead halves to put the bolts on the F-633's if you don't do it now. Having these parts installed didn't hinder any of the work doing the rest of the fuselage. The sticks would have been a nuisance, though, that's why I took the F-611 and 612 off until much later. If you have a set of washer wrenches, putting them back on is no problem later on.
You'll notice that I made the rib modification on all 4 of my center seat ribs, like a lot of builders do, rather than just two of them as called for in the plans. This makes taking it in and out very easy if I ever have to pull it out again for some reason.
Just my 2-cents worth on all this. This is what worked for me.
I remember contemplating the exact same question. Here are my suggestions.
First, if you haven't done so already, I would highly recommend that you take the time now, while this whole assembly is on the bench, and fit the F-665 lower pushrod to the assembly as well, even though I don't remember if the plans tell you to at this point. It's all on drawing 38. It needs to be fitted to the exact length required with the rod end bearings installed and adjusted as needed until both control sticks are parallel with each other. It's a whole lot easier to do this NOW on the bench than it would be later on when it's in the fuselage under the seat ribs and hard to reach. I would prime it and torque it down for good to the F-611 and 612 because you should never have to mess with it again.
Then, take the whole assembly off. The F-633's and everything as one unit. You can store it for a while this way. I found it easy to install and rivet the seat ribs without them in the way. However, once the seat ribs were riveted on and it was time to assemble the two halves of the F-704 bulkhead together, I bolted the assembly back onto the bulkhead first and then took the F-611 and F-612 off. You'll have a hard time reaching down in between the bulkhead halves to put the bolts on the F-633's if you don't do it now. Having these parts installed didn't hinder any of the work doing the rest of the fuselage. The sticks would have been a nuisance, though, that's why I took the F-611 and 612 off until much later. If you have a set of washer wrenches, putting them back on is no problem later on.
You'll notice that I made the rib modification on all 4 of my center seat ribs, like a lot of builders do, rather than just two of them as called for in the plans. This makes taking it in and out very easy if I ever have to pull it out again for some reason.
Just my 2-cents worth on all this. This is what worked for me.
Leave it all together if you can.....
That is a pain in the rear to get together once the fuse is complete!!! Those washers are almost impossible even with washer wrenches.....
I would die if I knew I had to pull that out and reinstall it!!!!
That is a pain in the rear to get together once the fuse is complete!!! Those washers are almost impossible even with washer wrenches.....
I would die if I knew I had to pull that out and reinstall it!!!!
Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
-
- Chief Rivet Banger
- Posts: 4013
- Joined: Thu Oct 14, 2004 8:40 pm
- Location: Baltimore, MD
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What I want to know though is how did you buck the belly skin rivets under the 633 brackets? With my brackets bolted in I can't see how to buck them. Did you use blind rivets?
Spike
Spike
http://www.rivetbangers.com - Now integrating web and mail!
Current Build: 2 years into a beautiful little girl
Current Build: 2 years into a beautiful little girl
Spike,
No, I didn't use any blind rivets. Do you have a bucking bar that looks like this?
That tapered extension has come in handy in more tight places than I can even recall. I've used it a lot throughout the project. It's worth a few bucks to pick one up or borrow one if you don't have one.
What this boils down to is a choice between messing with the washers and bolts for the F-611 and 612, or figuring out a way to reach down in between the bulkheads to tighten the nuts on the bolts for the F-633's, if you choose to leave it all together. Choice is yours.
The more I think about it, I realize that when wiring the sticks, you'll need to take the sticks off, won't you? I'm not there yet and I haven't done that, but I don't see how you'll wire the stick with it still on. Maybe someone who has been there can comment further. So the odds are, you're going to have to mess with those washers and bolts at some point anyway. Brian, how did you wire yours?
No, I didn't use any blind rivets. Do you have a bucking bar that looks like this?
That tapered extension has come in handy in more tight places than I can even recall. I've used it a lot throughout the project. It's worth a few bucks to pick one up or borrow one if you don't have one.
What this boils down to is a choice between messing with the washers and bolts for the F-611 and 612, or figuring out a way to reach down in between the bulkheads to tighten the nuts on the bolts for the F-633's, if you choose to leave it all together. Choice is yours.
The more I think about it, I realize that when wiring the sticks, you'll need to take the sticks off, won't you? I'm not there yet and I haven't done that, but I don't see how you'll wire the stick with it still on. Maybe someone who has been there can comment further. So the odds are, you're going to have to mess with those washers and bolts at some point anyway. Brian, how did you wire yours?
I guess you don't have to take the sticks off the weldment to drill the hole for the stick wiring, but it sure makes it easy. Personally, I dont see the big deal in installing the stick later. It isn't all that bad, especially if you have some washer wrenches to assist. Just a little patience, the right tools and patience and its easy.BSwayze wrote: The more I think about it, I realize that when wiring the sticks, you'll need to take the sticks off, won't you? I'm not there yet and I haven't done that, but I don't see how you'll wire the stick with it still on. Maybe someone who has been there can comment further. So the odds are, you're going to have to mess with those washers and bolts at some point anyway. Brian, how did you wire yours?
Spike -- As far as bucking those few rivets, just put some blind rivets in there. By the time you fly the thing you won't even remember they are there.
Mike Bullock
http://www.rvplane.com
RV-7 | Superior IO-360 | Whirlwind 200RV
Garmin GTN650 | GRT Dual Sport SX EFIS
Status: FLYING!
http://www.rvplane.com
RV-7 | Superior IO-360 | Whirlwind 200RV
Garmin GTN650 | GRT Dual Sport SX EFIS
Status: FLYING!
-
- Chief Rivet Banger
- Posts: 4013
- Joined: Thu Oct 14, 2004 8:40 pm
- Location: Baltimore, MD
- Contact:
Thats the way that I was leaning to be honest. I was just trying to figure out if I was missing something of if others had come to the same conclusion. Thanx for the validationbullojm1 wrote: Spike -- As far as bucking those few rivets, just put some blind rivets in there. By the time you fly the thing you won't even remember they are there.
http://www.rivetbangers.com - Now integrating web and mail!
Current Build: 2 years into a beautiful little girl
Current Build: 2 years into a beautiful little girl