Tip Up Hinge Blocks
- captain_john
- Sparky
- Posts: 5880
- Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2004 9:17 am
- Location: KPYM
Tip Up Hinge Blocks
Hey guys, soooo something that I didn't expect:
I got the hinge blocks in and clecoed the front skin on and LOW AND BEHOLD...
The damn goosenecks don't fit into their slots anymore! Oh TREAT!
Now Mikey, I see that you had fits about this too. How much needs to be trimmed away and was that amount even and square?
Should I hack off a generous amount with the hacksaw or just sand slowly with the belt sander?
By looking at it, it seems to need almost 1/8" of material removed in order to fit.
Tips? Clues? Experiences?
CJ
I got the hinge blocks in and clecoed the front skin on and LOW AND BEHOLD...
The damn goosenecks don't fit into their slots anymore! Oh TREAT!
Now Mikey, I see that you had fits about this too. How much needs to be trimmed away and was that amount even and square?
Should I hack off a generous amount with the hacksaw or just sand slowly with the belt sander?
By looking at it, it seems to need almost 1/8" of material removed in order to fit.
Tips? Clues? Experiences?
CJ
RV-7
Garmin G3X with VP-X & a TMX-IO-360 with G3i
It's all over but the flying! 800+ hours in only 3 years!
Garmin G3X with VP-X & a TMX-IO-360 with G3i
It's all over but the flying! 800+ hours in only 3 years!
-
- Class G
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2006 9:41 pm
- Location: Massachusetts
Measure the thickness of your goosenecks (mine measure .255)
If you made the C-619 from .250 stock, you will have .005 of interference which will make for a very snug fit, you will have to chamfer the fwd edges of the goosenecks to get them to fit in.
It may seem tight getting it in there but once assembled it will work buttery smoooth.
Thats just what I did...
Build on.
If you made the C-619 from .250 stock, you will have .005 of interference which will make for a very snug fit, you will have to chamfer the fwd edges of the goosenecks to get them to fit in.
It may seem tight getting it in there but once assembled it will work buttery smoooth.
Thats just what I did...
Build on.
Rich M.
RV-7 G3x Mattituck TMX IO-360
365 Hrs since Sept 2011
Massachusetts
https://picasaweb.google.com/1106267560 ... directlink
RV-7 G3x Mattituck TMX IO-360
365 Hrs since Sept 2011
Massachusetts
https://picasaweb.google.com/1106267560 ... directlink
Re: Tip Up Hinge Blocks
Tip - patiencecaptain_john wrote:
Tips? Clues? Experiences?
CJ
Clues - no
Experience - low to moderate
Couple three years ago I completed this step. It was very tough and very time consuming. I remember I put it on and off dozen times before I got the "why". All structure has a play when clecoed but as soon as you figure out which way it "plays" you adjust accordingly. Gooseneck didn't fit perfect either and I was filing them by hand several times to fit.
RV-9A N666BK flying 4,500+ hours since 2011
CJ-
I don't remember changing the thickness or size of the blocks. What I did end up doing is filing down the front of the tip-up canopy goosenecks to help them get started. It is a real pain to get the frame started in the UHMW blocks. What I also did was install the tip-up frame into the blocks before I clecoed on the top forward skin. That helps a lot too.
The whole tip-up frame is something I wish Van's or a third party would redesign. I ended up with a nice 1/4" gap between my forward skin and the forward canopy skin - any less than that would cause the skins to catch on each other. I am going to do some glass work when it warms up to make it look much more acceptable, plus to keep the possibility of water coming in when on the ground or in the air.
Good luck with your canopy frame CJ...You're gonna need it!
I don't remember changing the thickness or size of the blocks. What I did end up doing is filing down the front of the tip-up canopy goosenecks to help them get started. It is a real pain to get the frame started in the UHMW blocks. What I also did was install the tip-up frame into the blocks before I clecoed on the top forward skin. That helps a lot too.
The whole tip-up frame is something I wish Van's or a third party would redesign. I ended up with a nice 1/4" gap between my forward skin and the forward canopy skin - any less than that would cause the skins to catch on each other. I am going to do some glass work when it warms up to make it look much more acceptable, plus to keep the possibility of water coming in when on the ground or in the air.
Good luck with your canopy frame CJ...You're gonna need it!
Mike Bullock
http://www.rvplane.com
RV-7 | Superior IO-360 | Whirlwind 200RV
Garmin GTN650 | GRT Dual Sport SX EFIS
Status: FLYING!
http://www.rvplane.com
RV-7 | Superior IO-360 | Whirlwind 200RV
Garmin GTN650 | GRT Dual Sport SX EFIS
Status: FLYING!
I did the same. They will go in there as is but you must make em go. Once they start, it will go more easily. I would not cut em back as this will end up being sloppy after they break in.
I love the tipup idea but like Mike sez, this thing needs a redesign!!!! Something similar to the RV12 should work much better and be much easier to seal up.
I love the tipup idea but like Mike sez, this thing needs a redesign!!!! Something similar to the RV12 should work much better and be much easier to seal up.
Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
RV12-IS, #121606, N912BC - Building Now!
RV10, #41942, N????? - Project Sold
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB - SOLD
- pazmanyflyer
- Class G
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Tue Oct 13, 2009 5:56 pm
- Location: Litchfield Park, Arizona
Tip Up Hinge Blocks
I've been thinking something like "What about a carbon fiber molded lid i.e. Lancair"
Has anyone thought about something like that? Just throwing it out there.
Carlos in Arizona
Building RV7 - N537TC reserved
On 1/24/2011 10:42 AM, RB Lists - RV7 wrote:
-- Carlos Hernandez <carlosh@sec-engr.com> (carlosh@sec-engr.com) Structural Engineers Company 2963 W. Elliot Rd. - Suite 3 Chandler, AZ 85224 Phone: 480.968.8600 Fax: 480.968.8608 www.sec-engr.com CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE The information in this email may be confidential and/or privileged. This email is intended to be reviewed by only the individual or organization named above. If you are not the intended recipient or an authorized representative of the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any review, dissemination or copyingof this email and its attachments, if any, or the information contained herein is prohibited. If you havereceived this email in error, please immediately notify the sender by return email and delete this email from your system.[/code]
Submitted via email
Has anyone thought about something like that? Just throwing it out there.
Carlos in Arizona
Building RV7 - N537TC reserved
On 1/24/2011 10:42 AM, RB Lists - RV7 wrote:
Love my tip up....absolutely hated fitting and building it. I still haven't got it to seal on the sides. I would have paid plenty more for a lid that fit out of the box
Brian
Townsend, MT
rivetbangers.com - Discussion topic http://www.rivetbangers.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=36293#36293
-- Carlos Hernandez <carlosh@sec-engr.com> (carlosh@sec-engr.com) Structural Engineers Company 2963 W. Elliot Rd. - Suite 3 Chandler, AZ 85224 Phone: 480.968.8600 Fax: 480.968.8608 www.sec-engr.com CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE The information in this email may be confidential and/or privileged. This email is intended to be reviewed by only the individual or organization named above. If you are not the intended recipient or an authorized representative of the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any review, dissemination or copyingof this email and its attachments, if any, or the information contained herein is prohibited. If you havereceived this email in error, please immediately notify the sender by return email and delete this email from your system.[/code]
Submitted via email
Re: Tip Up Hinge Blocks
where do I send the money?I've been thinking something like "What about a carbon fiber molded lid i.e. Lancair"
Has anyone thought about something like that? Just throwing it out there.
Carlos in Arizona
Brian
Townsend, MT
Townsend, MT
Thanks
I've been lurking for a while and working on my RV7a for even longer. I started building in April of 2002 when I had more time than money. Now it seems that its the other way around, throw in a couple of kids you know the story. With work a little slower I hope to make the final push to completion. I have the panel to do, the engine and FWF to complete.
Rob
RV7A (finish kit)
RV4 N97RT (sold)
RV7A (finish kit)
RV4 N97RT (sold)
Re: Thanks
Welcome from another long time lurker Rob! I started in 2006 and still have more time then money . Ready for the airport now waiting till snow melts.N155RE wrote:I've been lurking for a while and working on my RV7a for even longer. I started building in April of 2002 when I had more time than money. Now it seems that its the other way around, throw in a couple of kids you know the story. With work a little slower I hope to make the final push to completion. I have the panel to do, the engine and FWF to complete.
RV-9A N666BK flying 4,500+ hours since 2011
- captain_john
- Sparky
- Posts: 5880
- Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2004 9:17 am
- Location: KPYM
- captain_john
- Sparky
- Posts: 5880
- Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2004 9:17 am
- Location: KPYM
OK, Back on track here...
Just so everyone knows, it seems that these hinge blocks do need trimming in order for the tangs to fit in. Here is a pic of Mike's project where I am talking about:
(Mike, why is your pic not coming up?)
(The pic is on this page: http://www.rvplane.com/?categoryid=5&dayid=533 )
I found it best to trim the outboard (thinner one) urethane block based on how my skins weren't fitting. It was difficult to get the sides of the forward skin all the way down and clecoed in place.
All set now! Passed that hurdle!
Thanks all!
CJ
Just so everyone knows, it seems that these hinge blocks do need trimming in order for the tangs to fit in. Here is a pic of Mike's project where I am talking about:
(Mike, why is your pic not coming up?)
(The pic is on this page: http://www.rvplane.com/?categoryid=5&dayid=533 )
I found it best to trim the outboard (thinner one) urethane block based on how my skins weren't fitting. It was difficult to get the sides of the forward skin all the way down and clecoed in place.
All set now! Passed that hurdle!
Thanks all!
CJ
RV-7
Garmin G3X with VP-X & a TMX-IO-360 with G3i
It's all over but the flying! 800+ hours in only 3 years!
Garmin G3X with VP-X & a TMX-IO-360 with G3i
It's all over but the flying! 800+ hours in only 3 years!