"The" deburring tool-Burraway!

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 10:43 pm

well, i used my new Burraway tools tonite. i have to say that I LOVE THIS TOOL!!! it takes so much action out of the process, and is very speedy! the only thing i could complain about, is the fact that you have to hold up the drill for quite a while when doing the skins. other than that, i give this tool an A+!

tshort · Post by **tshort** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 1:50 am

I agree.
I was hoping to be able to get one of those cheap electric screwdrivers to hold the burraway, but none (that I have found) have a chuck - they take hex ended bits. The drill does get heavy.
The burraway is WAY faster for all that deburring.

Thomas

Post by **Spike** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 6:11 am

Be careful though that is an easy way to turn a deburr tool into a drill bit. This is especially true if you have thin sheet metal, like the .016 for the rudder skins. I dont trust myself and use the debur by hand and try my best to not turn it more than 1/2 - 1 turn in a hole.

-- John

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 8:57 am

from what i learned last night about this tool, the larger (bigger than say #20 holes) ones are sprung a little "tighter", so they work better for the larger holes in thicker metal. the #40 burraway is really light, and you almost have to hold it in place for couple of seconds to get it to do anything. for large holes in thin metal, i'll still do by hand 'cuz of the tighter spring in the burraway.

jimrobinette · Post by **jimrobinette** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 3:37 pm

FYI,

I was told by Judy Avery at Osh this summer the reason she doesn't sell them is that she had an inordinate amount of returns for broken blades, mostly on the smaller tools. The larger ones were ok, but I guess the smaller ones broke frequently, making it not feasible for her to carry and sell.

Jim

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 3:43 pm

thanks jim. i could totally see that happening. the #40 blade is awefully small, and seems a little on the brittle side. i'll watch that and give a report if/when i run into problems. the #30 blade seems pretty robust, and works really well.

dirtmanf800 · Post by **dirtmanf800** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 4:23 pm

I have several Burraway tools but haven't used them yet ( havenâ€™t used the drill bits ether):headscratch:
The Cogsdill Buraway site has all the info on selecting and using them.

http://www.cogsdill.com/pdf%20files/usdeb_burraway.pdf

cjensen · Post by **cjensen** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 4:30 pm

dirtman,

funny you post that link to their site, as i was just there not five minutes ago! all of it is in pdf format, and there is no price page, but i think they run about $45 a piece. find 'em on ebay MUCH cheaper.

tshort · Post by **tshort** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 5:48 pm

I've used the #40 for both elevators, the rudder, all stiffeners / spars, etc. and now for the wing spars (front and rear) with no breakage yet (knock on wood.
I still think there is really very little deburring to be done if you use a reamer for these match drilled holes - the holes are very clean.
I'm just happy with how much faster it is. Deburring can get very monotonous!

Thomas
-8 wings
(1/2 way done deburring / fluting / etc. !)

jimrobinette · Post by **jimrobinette** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 6:37 pm

Thomas,

In my opnion, the worst part of building a metal airplane. But, if that is as bad as it gets.....

Jim

TShort wrote:Deburring can get very monotonous!

dirtmanf800 · Post by **dirtmanf800** » Wed Aug 24, 2005 9:03 am

ebay, that's where ours came from. Cogsdill's plant is only 45 miles from home. Hadn't heard of them untill we started collecting tools for the RV. Kind of funny finding them in my backyard.

Eric · Post by **Eric** » Fri Sep 02, 2005 10:27 pm

T Short.

Milwaukee Electric tool makes a cordless screwdriver with a chuck whic will do what you are looking for. The following is one (picked at random) hit from google. They are not cheap and they seem to go through batteries a lot. I do not know if the chuck is available as an accessory. Eric

http://www.jimslimstools.com/detail.aspx?ID=1347

Eric · Post by **Eric** » Fri Sep 02, 2005 10:28 pm

T Short.

Milwaukee Electric tool makes a cordless screwdriver with a chuck whic will do what you are looking for. The following is one (picked at random) hit from google. They are not cheap and they seem to go through batteries a lot. I do not know if the chuck is available as an accessory. Eric

http://www.jimslimstools.com/detail.aspx?ID=1347

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Wed Sep 07, 2005 12:50 am

This enquiry refers to T Shorts' recent post about the need to deburr 'matched holes'.
Not having seen one of the 'newer' kits with pre drilled matched holes I need to know if the holes have been drilled to the correct size already, or do most (all) of them need to be re drilled to the correct larger size?
If the latter is the case then I understand the need to deburr, however if the former is correct then maybe not?

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Wed Sep 07, 2005 5:58 am

The pre-punched holes are too small to use. They MUST be match drilled for a) alignment purposes and b) for proper rivet fit and clearance.

CJ

tshort · Post by **tshort** » Wed Sep 07, 2005 9:03 am

I wasn't referring to matched holes but to holes that have been reamed - they are cleaner than drilled holes, in my experience. I still deburr lightly, though.

T.

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Wed Sep 07, 2005 5:40 pm

Van says that it is a

trait to "over deburr".

I have been paying close attention to my deburring and wondering what it is meant by "over deburring".

I guess it is actually making a countersink type recess. I try to avoid that.

CJ

Post by **Spike** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 6:02 am

I believe that if you bevel the edge you did it too much. At least thats the way I have been looking a it. I usually do it by hand and only turn the normal deburr tool no more than 1/2 turn.

RivetBangers.com

"The" deburring tool-Burraway!

"The" deburring tool-Burraway!

deburr matched holes?