Dimpling elevator skins on later models...

Post by **Spike** » Tue Jun 14, 2005 8:15 pm

For those of you with elevator skins that come pre-bent at the leading edge, how did you dimple them? The skins are driving me nuts trying to find a reliable way of holding them open without causing creasing, etc. Thoughts?

-- Spike

Bob Barrett · Post by **Bob Barrett** » Wed Jun 15, 2005 8:39 pm

My RV-6A Horizontal Stablizer and Rudder both came with the leading edge pre bent. I was able to use the Avery Tool on them but you did have to be careful. I did not have the preformed leading edge of the elevators preformed because we made that bend ourself. I am sure that there is someway to do it without creasing them.

jim_geo · Post by **jim_geo** » Thu Jun 16, 2005 12:48 am

Good question. I'm setting up my work bench and have been giving this veryt thing some thought. Seems to me that the C frame needs to be modified in order to be able to reach in to the edge crease. I'm going to be looking around this site and others to try and find an answer before I move to much further. I'm thinking when I took the builders class we just opened the crease up though.

tshort · Post by **tshort** » Thu Jun 16, 2005 2:55 am

Do you mean the trailing edge? On my -8 elevators the LE isn't pre bent at all, but the TE is partially bent...
I used pop rivet dimple dies for the last holes in the TE and then the c frame for the rest.
I'm not sure what the -9 elevators look like but I'm pretty sure the -7 are the same as the -8....
Thomas
-8 (wing kit got here yesterday!!)

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Thu Jun 16, 2005 5:45 am

Thomas,

This one blew my mind as well. I just supposed the -9 elevs were different.

Dunno?

Looks like you will be doing some countersinking soon!

CJ

Post by **Spike** » Thu Jun 16, 2005 8:06 am

I came up with somewhat of a jig that I think will work for me. Ill try to get some pictures of it tonight and get them posted.

-- Spike

Submitted via email

Post by **Spike** » Thu Jun 16, 2005 8:08 am

Yeah, on the 9's the leading edges of the elevators are pre-bent. You then rivet the trailing edges together. Here is a picture ...

-- Spike

This one blew my mind as well. I just supposed the -9 elevs were different.

Submitted via email

tshort · Post by **tshort** » Thu Jun 16, 2005 10:02 am

I guess maybe use the pop rivet dies?

So are there stiffeners in there? How the heck do you get them in?

I didn't realize they were that different - I wonder which is tougher - bending the TE and rolling the LE or doing it the -9 way....

Thomas

Post by **Spike** » Thu Jun 16, 2005 10:07 am

I think as far as bending the metal the 9 way is easier. What's a bear though is getting those holes dimpled when only having 2 or 4 hands. *yuck* Its definitely enough motivation to try and make sure you don't screw up.

-- John

Submitted via email

Post by **Spike** » Fri Jun 17, 2005 9:06 pm

I was able to come up with a jig/setup that helped me get this job done. I doubt I could have done this with even Patti's help had I not figured this out. It makes life much easier. The process is a bit slow, but hey, the results came out great!

-- Spike

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Jun 17, 2005 9:18 pm

Just a lurker here.... but I'm curious how this would be done with Experimental Aero's DRDT-2 becaus there is the handle to pull on, not just hitting it with a hammer.

My thought would be to reverse the dimple dies, flip the skin over, and put the DRDT-2 on the edge of the work table so that the skins were bent downward along the bench toward your feet. That way there would be room to pull that lever.

Clear as mud, I'm sure. So, do you think that would work?

Thanks for your time!

-Jim

Post by **Spike** » Fri Jun 17, 2005 9:20 pm

Welcome Jim!! I understand what you are saying, though I have not used that dimpler. I would think it would work in principle though it would ultimately be up to the dimensions of the parts and the dimpler. One thing to keep in mind is that the skin is very "springy". The farther you open it up the harder it tries to close which ends up being a bit of a pain.

-- John

Submitted via email

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Jun 17, 2005 9:44 pm

Thanks for the welcome. I've been lurking for a while now...hopefully I'll start a -10 in a few months. It's been quite fun already and I don't even have a kit. But I did take Tom Emery's class in Pennsylvania a few weeks back (awesome class!!!)...so I guess I've pounded just a couple rivits (literally).

As for the rest of my story...the readers digest version is I got the $100K intro ride in a 6A from a guy in Manasas, VA and told the wife I wanted to build. She said I had to finish the motorcycle project in the garage first, so I did this past spring after 9 solid months of work. I couldn't immediately start the -10 because of an impending move half way across the country. But the good news is our offer was just accepted on a house with an unfinished walk-out basement and an attached 3-car airplane factory. We'll close in about 60 days, then it's set up the house/shop and then the real fun will begin! Okay, I guess flying is real fun too, but...

Also, I have a lead on a used tool kit and the DRDT-2 on order --hence the question.

Thanks for your time! I've learned a ton already!

-Jim

dirtmanf800 · Post by **dirtmanf800** » Fri Jun 17, 2005 9:52 pm

â€œMy thought would be to reverse the dimple dies, flip the skin over, and put the DRDT-2 on the edge of the work table so that the skins were bent downward along the bench toward your feet.â€

Hello Jim, I have the DRDT-2 (still in pieces) but that is what we are planning on doing with it.
There is a photo on the experimental aero site showing it just that way.

Elliott

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Fri Jun 17, 2005 10:14 pm

Well, I kinda got the answer you are looking for!

My experience was with the -7 Emp (obviously enough) and the DRDT-1, which is essentially the same as the -2 for this conversation.

The last trailing edge dimple (which I am guessing is closer to the fold than that of the -9 ilk) was the ONLY one the DRDT couldn't reach. I did all the dimpling solo and it was a breeze.

The last one I used the pop rivet dimple tool for.

Slicker 'n sheet!

Hope this helps!

CJ

tshort · Post by **tshort** » Sat Jun 18, 2005 12:34 am

I set up my dimple dies the opposite way (male on top - keep the wisecracks to yourselves) and use the avery c - frame. I prefer it that way, and let the opposite edge of the skin hang under the work bench.

Thomas

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