More fuel bracket questions...

tshort · Post by **tshort** » Sun Feb 19, 2006 3:47 pm

OK ... working on the attach bracket for the fuel tank...
Seems to me it will be easiest to rivet the rib in place then rivet on the attachment bracket. I've looked at CJ's pics on this and am wondering if there is a difference in the bracket for the -8 and the -7 ... on mine the thickness of the bracket completely covers the rivet holes in the rib.

Also, how critical is the fore / aft dimension of the bracket? The plans call for the bracket itself to be 2" front to back, but then also show that the trailing edge should be 2" back from the LE of the tank ... once you take into account the thickness of the rib and the skin it is impossible for both dimensions to be 2". I guess what I'm wondering is whether or not the bracket on the fuse is placed to account for the location of the bracket on the tank.

Anyone?

Thanks
Thomas
-8 wings - back at it!

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Sun Feb 19, 2006 6:54 pm

Thomas, I put the cart before the horse. The plans call out a reverse installation (or I guess you *could* say I did the reverse installation). I am of Italian descent, so maybe things appear different to me!

If you find it easier to do it the other (Van's) way, certainly do so.

Also the exact placement isn't critical. The fuse attach bracket (the thing this bolts to) is infinately adjustable.

Nuttin to it but ta do it!!! I should talk. I dwelled in this minutia way too long! I will be pleased to be finally finishing up my tanks this school vacation!!! (Yah, we are on another school vacation this week too!) You all get this week off too, don't cha?

This teaching bit is cool!

CJ

bmurrish · Post by **bmurrish** » Sun Feb 19, 2006 11:01 pm

From what I have been told you want the bracket to sit as close as possible to 2" back from the leading edge. Can't verify it since I haven't mated the wings to the fuse.

If I were you, I would rivet the tank attachment bracket on AFTER you rivet the skin/rib. By doing so you don't have to worry about being able to get your flush set in to sit on the rivets. It is such a simple task to do afterwards.

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Mon Feb 20, 2006 7:42 am

Yeah, Bill is right. By doing it according to plans, you won't have any trouble squeezing the rib to skin rivets.

My way, you do need to make 4 relief notches on the T405 at each rivet for the thin nose to slip in and form the buck tail of the rivet.

By all means, if you are more comfortable going per plans...

Do it your way.

One thing I have noticed is that as you proceed with the kit, the handholding and methods are more and more, left up to the preference of the builder. They make suggestions and not all the time are the suggestions how you would like to do it. Sometimes you will find a better way. Sometimes your way isn't any better, but is more easily done with the tools you have on hand.

CJ

captain_john · Post by **captain_john** » Mon Feb 20, 2006 11:24 pm

...I found this pic of the attachment point!

(WHOA! It's big! Sorry.)

See what I mean?

CJ